What a bracelet! The star sapphire in its center is something we hardly ever see, we couldn't stop playing with it in the sunlight. This is how one wants to have a Victorian bracelet with a cabochon cut star sapphire and 86 rose cut diamonds to look like. The overall impression of this beauty is impressive, we are not even sure its splendour is caught well on the pictures.

The bracelet is mostly in 18K gold but the center part is silver on top and backed with 18K yellow gold. The gold is stamped with the French control mark for 18K gold representing an eagle's head that was in use in France from about 1838 and the French control mark representing an rhinoceros' head that was in use in France from about 1847.

Let's start looking at the master mark in this piece. We see an "L" and a "G" which was the "poiçon de maître" (French for "master mark") for Léon Gariod. This company was established by Gaucher and Tonnelier in 1859. Gaucher became the sole owner in 1869 and started a partnership with Gariod in 1875 who took over the company in 1884. The company with its address in Rue St. Augustin 29 in Paris became specialized in articulated bracelets and mat gold chains with precious stones.

What's interesting about this company is that they worked very closely together with L.Gautrait, an illuster jeweller of the Art Nouveau period of who not much, if any, biographical information is known. According to Vever (who wrote the "bible" for antique jewelers around 1900), Gautrait was a "ciseleur-modeleur" and fidèle collaborateur" of the Parisian jewellers Léon Gariod. Vever characterised his collegue as an "excellent perfectionistic jeweller with a delicate taste".

Vever continues: "These simple yet decorative jewels were meticulously made and extremely popular. With his attractive brooches and his pendants of contemporary or traditional inspiration, Gariod's work has attracted a great deal of attention. With his faithful collaborator M.(...M and not L ! - Adin) designs and chases these creations, characterized by their great refinement.

Bracelet sapphire Leon Gariod Ref.08197-0188

sapphire, diamonds, gold, silver

diameter of sapphire: 1.35 cm (0.53 inch)
thickness of sapphire: 1.17 cm (0.46 inch)

origin: France - Paris
date: 1880s
style: Victorian
length: 18.50 cm (7.28 inch)
weight: 36.20 grams

Antique and Vintage Jewelry
Antique Jewelry