This archaeological-revival gold necklace features a filigree decoration, which is in fact thin golden wire twisted into refined motifs, in this case elegant little balls. You can also notice the use of granulation on this piece. Granulation is a technique where the goldsmith uses very small balls (granules) of metal, which are not soldered to the piece but welded. Both techniques demand very high skills and precision from the maker. The continuous uniform fringe decorated with beads, wirework and florettes of this necklace is typical for the work of Eugne Fontenay.
A demi-parure of very similar design is illustrated in French Jewelry of the Nineteenth Century, Henri Vever, translated by Katherine Purcell, p. 643. and a similar necklace plus matching earrings were sold at Sotheby's for $ 52,000 (Important Jewels auction, New York, February 2008 sale N08410, lot 110).

Eugne Fontenay (1823-87) was one of the foremost goldsmiths in France during the second half of the nineteenth century. He was a great admirer of the ancient techniques of granulation and filigree, and became best known for his outstanding work in the 'archaeological' Era. Fontenay was no doubt inspired by the Campana collection of ancient jewellery, acquired by Napoleon III in 1860, and his firm produced much work in the antique Era based on Greek, Roman and Etruscan examples.

Fontenay was a founding member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Bijouterie-Joaillerie-Orfvrerie in Paris and was awarded the cross of the L(c)gion d'Honneur as a member of the jury at the Vienna exhibition in 1873 as a result of his masterly Report on the goldsmiths' and silversmiths' work. In 1882, Fontenay retired and devoted his time to publishing numerous articles on jewelry, as well as working on his masterpiece, Les Bijoux Anciens et Modernes, published posthumously in 1887.

Choker Necklace Fontenay ref.09251-0188

18 carats yellow gold, eagle's head hallmark

date: 1860-1870

origin: France - Paris

length necklace 36.50 cm (14.37 inch)

weight: 84.50 grams

Antique and Vintage Jewelry
Antique Jewelry